1. A sturdy work table

2. 2 pieces of wood
a) 2in x 15in x 2in (ledge)
b) 12in x 18in x 1in (platen)

3. 2 G-Clamps (alternative = nails)

4. 1 Pair jiffy Clamps/ Screen printing clamps

5. Hammer

6. Some screws and a screwdriver

First you’ll need a work table that you can trash since you’ll be spilling paint, drilling holes and who knows what else. Here’s what you’re trying to achieve.

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a DIY 1-color 1-station screen printing press

Now get two pieces of wood. One is for the “ledge” and the other as the “platen”. The “ledge” is where your clamps will sit, while the “platen” is where you’ll be placing your t-shirt. The screen frame that I’m using is 12” x 16”. So depending on your screen size, the length of the ”ledge” must accommodate your screen.

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Ledge & Platen

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The jiffy clamps I’m using have four holes in total so I drilled them on the “ledge” and screwed them in tight. Alternatively, you can use door hinges but that means having to drill holes in your screen. Not conducive if you’re using metal/aluminum frames.

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jiffy clamps

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Next, place the “ledge” on the edge of your work table and clamp it down tightly using G-Clamps. As an alternative, you can also use some heavy duty industrial super sized monster nails to hold down the “ledge” piece.

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hold down the ledge using G-clamps

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Once this is done, insert your screen and adjust accordingly.

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fit the screen in and adjust

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Make sure the screen is aligned with the platen. Also, don’t forget to add some “off contact” space.

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adjust screen alignment

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"off-contact" between screen and platen

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F.A.Q
Why do I need the two pieces of wood? Why can’t I just screw the jiffy clamps onto the table?

You want to create an off-contact space for a perfect print. If you screw the jiffy clamps or hinges directly onto the work table you will have zero space in between the table and your screen. This is why you need the two pieces of wood to create such elevation.

Where can I get the jiffy clamps?
Any respectable hardware or screen printing supplies shop should carry stock.

1. A Scrap Table / work table
2. 5 pieces of wood equally cut
3. 1 piece flat board (12×18 inches)
4. Saw, hammer, screwdriver, nails, metal washer, measurement tool,
5. Wood chipper, chisel, Sandpaper
6. Marker pen
7. 4 Pairs jiffy clamps
8. Glue
9. Wire, wire cutter, pliers

How to:

Make a mental note of the picture below, it’s what we’re trying to achieve.

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a DIY 4 color 2 station screen printing press

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The first thing we do is to make the frame. You’ll need five (5) equally cut wood. Unless you’re a skilled wood worker, I suggest going down to a hardware store or your local Home Depot to have those five pieces cut out for you.

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5 equal pieces of wood to make the frame

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Depending on how large your screen is going to be, cut accordingly. The screens I use typically range from (LxW) 10×8 to 12×16 inches, so the five pieces of wood measures 15×2 inches each.

Next, we’re going to join them together using a “corner halved” or ‘L’ joint. But before you start, I suggest you do some labeling to avoid any hiccups. First, label each piece of wood with corresponding alphabets.

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make sure you label before cutting the frame

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Next, mark each end with numbers to indicate which piece goes where.

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labeling each piece with numbers

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labeling each end with numbers

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Next, determine your ‘L’ joints and shade out the part you need to cut out.

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shade out the area to cut

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make sure your pieces are aligned

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shade out the area to cut

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Bring out the saw, hammer and chisel (alternatively, use a wood chipper). For this task, again, unless you have the skill, have your woodworking friend cut it out for you. This is what we’re trying to achieve.

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L shaped connector

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You can get the L shape by doing this…

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saw off shaded area

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and then this…

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chipping away excess wood

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Once you have everything chipped out, use some glue to fit the joints properly.

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glue each piece

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Once the glue is dry. You may also seal the deal by hammering some nails into the joints.

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hammer in nails

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hammer in more nails

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This is how your frame should look like after…

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screen printing press frame

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Now add the 4 pairs of clamps, one on each side. Measure and mark accordingly, then start drilling.

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drilling holes for the screen printing clamps

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screw in screen printing clamps

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Great, by now you should see it taking shape and should look like this…

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screen printing press frame with clamps

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To attach the frame to your work table, measure down the middle and drill a hole in the frame.

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measure down the middle

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Drill all the way through the tabletop. This is where you will fit a screw in to act as the center of rotation. Use a screw that has no threads on the upper part like the one in the picture. This is enables smooth rotation. Grease it up if you want.

TIP: Give yourself ample printing space, do not attach your frame in the middle of the table.

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insert a screw in the middle

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Now that the frame is set, you can some add extra sturdiness. First, drill a hole on each side (total 4 holes) of the frame.

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drill a hole on each side of the frame

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Second, drill (1) ONE hole on the tabletop. Make sure all four holes on the frame intercept with the hole on the table.

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drill ONE hole on the table top

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Third, use a solid nail to push through the hole. Notice the mechanics here, while printing, take the nail out rotate screens and insert the nail back in to stop rotation.

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add in a nail for extra sturdiness

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the nail securely holds the frame in while printing

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Here’s how your screen printing press should look like…

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almost complete screen printing press

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Okay so we’re on to our final step – how to hold the screen up during printing. This happens to be the part where I’ve experimented the most. I’ve used rubber bands, springs, and even toothpaste caps but have finally settled for plain wire strings.

For this setup, you’ll need some wire, a marker pen, and a pair of pliers. First off, cut four, 5 inch wire strips.

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wire, wire cutter and a pair of pliers

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Take a marker pen and wrap the wire around it to create a loop. Twist to secure it.

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make a loop with the wire

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Next, unscrew a jiffy clamp on each side. Then, slide the one piece of wire underneath – in between the clamp and the frame. Screw it back on tightly, adjusting the length as you go along.

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unscrew clamp

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screw clamp back on with wire underneath

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The idea here is to be able to prop the screen up with the wire after a print. See what I mean?

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screen propped up with wire

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Do that to all 4 sides, and soon enough you’ll have a home-made 4 color 1 station printing press like the one below! Add t-shirt and print!

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diy 4 color 1 station screen printing press

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So that’s it guys, it’s not a very complex project plus it’s definitely a cheaper option by using tools you probably already have in your tool shed. There’s a free pdf download of this entire blueprint in my Free Downloads section. Thanks for reading!

Before we begin, let me state the obvious. Screen-printing isn’t absolute (no form of art ever is though), and is not for everyone. There’s a lot of trial and error involved because printing contains a lot of variables – time being the most important. And I don’t mean how long it takes to wash a screen, or how long it takes for you to let the emulsion dry. What I mean is the time you will take to test out each single variable to produce exactly what you want. Nevertheless, the experiments should be a fun and enjoyable journey.

The guide that I have prepared shows you the steps needed to achieve a good one color print, as for multi-colored prints, be prepared to spend a little more time. I suggest you keep a notepad close to you at all times and remember to keep experimenting. At the end of the process, I’ll explain the tools, why you need it, and how to use them. So, in a stripped down concept, the process works like this.

Step 1. Select, prepare, and print your digital image

Step 2. Prepping and coating your screen with emulsion

Step 3. Exposing your digital image on to the coated screen

Step 4. Washing out the screen

Step 5. Setting up your screen for print

Step 6. Screen printing your first t-shirt

Step 7. Curing the ink

Step 8. Reclaiming your screen and maintenance

Okay, now let’s move on to pictures and more details! >> Step 1. Select, prepare, and print your digital image

Mesh count

When you walk into a screen printing supplies shop, just tell them what kind of medium you’re planning to print on. You say “fabric” or specifically, “t-shirts”. In general, t-shirt printers will advice a mesh count between 110 to 160 (US standard) for EU, UK or Asia this is between 1100 to 1750. Think of it as pixels on your computer monitor. The higher the count, the finer the detail is.

Why don’t l just get 240 then? I know, detail is good, but unless you’re printing posters or onto a hard and smooth surface, you’ll want mesh holes big enough for paint to go through as you apply pressure on with a squeegee. Too small a hole and you won’t get that full print you want.

Frame

There are two types, metal (aluminum) and wooden. Both have their pros and cons. Metal frames are pricier, but will last. Wooden frames are economical but will warp (after washing it multiple times) after a while, this will leave an uneven print. However, there are excellent quality wooden frames. My advice is to start off with a wooden frame – before buying, make sure to lay it on a flat surface and test the evenness. Get those with box joints, mortise, or tenon jointed.

Squeegee

There are three types of squeegee blades, the most commonly used are the flat heads a.k.a rectangular tips, the ball nose, and then there are the pointers a.k.a V-Shapes. In my personal opinion, flat heads are great for paper and large textile printing, but if you’re printing t shirts, I’d go for the pointers. Using pointers also cut out the risk of pushing excess paint, while making it easy to maintain the proper 35 – 45-degree angel from start to finish.

Paint

Like I already mentioned, water based and plastisol have their place. There are literally hundreds of brands out there, all with different specifications and ingredients. As a tip, ask the salesperson for a sample print of the ink. This way you can gauge if that’s the type of ink you’re looking for.

Good shops will custom mix a color (according to the Pantone Color Chart) for a fee. Bad shops won’t even have that option.

Emulsion

This is the most important component of screen printing. This photo/light sensitive liquid hardens up when exposed to UV rays, and becomes water resistant. The fuss about this is whether or not to get it separate (sensitizer + emulsion) or premixed a.k.a instant ones. I’ve tried both, they work the same and the cost is negligible between the two if you’re starting out.

Emulsion Scoop Coater

In general, get a scoop coater that is at least an inch shorter in length than your screen. This way, you would only coat 6 inches of that 7 or 8 inch screen of yours.

Reclaimer a.k.a Emulsion Remover

Once the job is done, you’ll need to strip the stencil off and start fresh. Like emulsions, they come premixed. Companies that manufacture emulsion usually manufacture reclaimers too, so just go ahead with the favorite.

Checklist -

Here’s a checklist of tools you’ll need to start off. Don’t waste time and good luck!

_ Painters Tape, Cellophane/Transparent Tape, or Brown Gummed Tape

_ Inkjet Transparencies

_ All-Surface Black Marker Pen

_ Inkjet Printer (if you don’t already have one)

_ 2 regular Coasters or empty cds

_ Degreaser

_ 1 Can of Adhesive Spray Mount

_ 1 A4 Sized Glass Panel

_ 1 Stopwatch

_ 1 Black cardboard/ black cloth

_ 1 Table Fan/Space heater that blows cool wind

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Prepare files with a graphic software like Adobe Illustrator or Photoshop

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So before you do anything, the first and most important step is to be able to get the “perfect” digital print.

What you need:

• Desktop/Laptop
• Graphic software ie. Adobe Illustrator, Adobe Photoshop, Corel Draw, or Inkscape
• Laser or Ink jet Printer
• Ink jet or Laser Transparency paper, vellum, or Overhead Projector transparencies

If you noticed, I highlighted the word “perfect”. In screen printing terms, this means getting the most opaque, most solid, blacker than black image possible. Why? To keep out the light that’s why. Read on. My first prints were from my trusty 3-year-old HP Deskjet D260 printer which I had fed third party ink jet transparencies. I remember getting paranoid thinking it wasn’t black enough, so I printed another page and paired it up. Alternatively, you could use a Sharpie or an all-surface marker pen to darken your image. * A tip to Illustrator users, in print setup, make sure to specify that you’re printing on ‘transparency’.

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HP image print out on transparency

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After trying out everything in the market, I’ve come full circle to say, ink jets not only produce decent opaque images, but is also the most economical of print methods. Laser printers uses heat to set the ink onto paper, and this would sometimes cause the transparency to shrink and therefore skew the image. Alternatively, you could bring your image to a photocopier. Of all my tests, this method produced the most opaque images. But, like the laser printer, heat is involved, and I’d rather not make excessive trips to Kinko’s.

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Step 2. Prepping and coating your screen with emulsion

What you need:

• Wooden or Aluminum frame
• Degreaser
• Emulsion
• Screen coater a.k.a scoop
• Gloves

Before you start this process, make sure you degrease your screen to eliminate possible blockages, gunk, and impurities on the mesh. I use a foam scrub, the kind you wash your dishes with.

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wash the screen thoroughly

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Degrease, rinse, wash, rinse, and air dry, or with a tabletop fan.

Fan dry your screens

Once your frame is dry, bring it into your “darkroom”. Any confined area with no UV (ultraviolet) rays is good. My first darkroom was my bedroom which windows I had taped up with black craft paper to keep the sun out.

Fluorescent or yellow study light bulbs are no threats. If you really wanna be safe, do this at night.

Next is the fun part. Take out your emulsion, scoop, and gloves.

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Pour a generous amount of emulsion to fill up the scoop, you don’t want to run out of emulsion while coating the screen.

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pour emulsion into scoop coater

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I would say your experimentation stage begins here with the variables being the mesh and emulsion type. Coat too much and you may not be able to get a good stencil, coat too little and the emulsion might run after the first print. For me, what works best is 2x coats on the squeegee side, and 1x on the Squeegee Side
">print side. Slowly start from the bottom and work your way up.

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start from the bottom to the top

Remember to take your time, be patient, and use your head.

firmly coat each screen slowly

Try not to follow exactly what other blogs, friends, neighbors, or other printers say. Remember, write EVERYTHING down.

prop something under, bottom side down

On a hot summer day, my screens take 2 hours to dry. But to be safe, leave it overnight with the fan on.

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Step 3. Exposing your digital image on to the coated screen

What you need:

• Coated screen
• Digitally printed image
• A piece of glass
• Spray mount or any type of sticky tape, I use clear tape.
• A piece of black cloth and cardboard
• Stopwatch
• The Sun

While still in the dark room, stack up accordingly. From the bottom, up.

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1. Black cardboard 2. coated screen 3. transparency 4. glass panel

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1. Black piece of cardboard (same size as your screen) to soak up the UV rays during exposure

2. Screen with squeegee side facing upwards

3. Digitally printed image

4. Glass panel or clear tape to hold down the transparency to the screen. The pros use spray mount (sticky spray).

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Okay, great. Now take a deep breath and calm down. Before you leave the darkroom, do this:

1. Set your Stopwatch to 00:00

2. Make sure you cover up your project (I use a big black cloth) until you get out into the Sun – otherwise random UV rays will mess up your emulsion.

3. Fill up a tub/basin/bath with warm water to soak your screen in after.

Okay, once your done, take your project outside. Remove the cloth/cardboard, and start the countdown.

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Here’s where the magic takes place. The emulsion is a light sensitive chemical in which will harden up when UV rays are present. During exposure your blacker than black image keeps the light from hitting the emulsion. So later on, when you take your screen to wash, the area that hasn’t been exposed will wash off – leaving you a stencil of your digital image. Beautiful isn’t it? Now you know why you had to get the perfect digitally printed image!

In order to determine exposure time, you can consult with the people who sold you the emulsion, or check its label – most would include recommended exposure times. But if you’re like me who got it wrong the first 3 times, then do this. Draw a table/chart with the amount of coating versus the exposure time to find out the balance.

Remember, the amount of emulsion coats you have will correlate with the amount of time you need to properly expose your image. When I made my chart, I had set my exposure times to 15 seconds, 30 seconds, 45sec, and 60 seconds under the sun. It didn’t take me long to figure out an optimum.

Step 4. Washing out the screen

What you need:

• Shower head or high pressure jet spray
• Ear plugs (optional)

Use the shower head and spray away. Your image should start to appear once it comes in contact with water.

soak screen or dab with a wet cloth

Rub firmly on both sides and be careful that your fingernails don’t tear or rip the stencil. As your image becomes clearer, check against the light to make sure all the unexposed emulsion is completely gone. Even the smallest blockage could cost you your print.

Okay, if everything turns out well, pat yourself on your back. You should be extra proud for producing such work. Prop it up against the fan, and go tell mom about it while you wait for the stencil to dry.

But wait….

…what if things didn’t turn out so well, say…

Problem: Your image appears, but it’s taking forever to wash out the unexposed area.

What may be: You OVEREXPOSED the emulsion. This means it was out in the sun for too long and the emulsion hardened up. Either cut back on exposure time, or on emulsion coats. Also consider, that your blacker than black transparency wasn’t opaque enough, allowing light to penetrate through to harden the emulsion. Pair it up with another print, or darken it with a pen. More tips on getting opaque prints.

Problem: Your image appears but starts to peel off while spraying down.

What may be: You have UNDEREXPOSED the emulsion. Yep, you’re right, either up the exposure time, or put another coat on either the Squeegee Side
">print side or squeegee side. Also consider that your high pressure spray is too high pressured. Yeah, it happens.

Problem: Your image washes out fine, but the lines along your image peel away or gets “fuzzy”.

What may be: Your blacker than black digital print wasn’t opaque enough. Print another and pair it up, or darken it with a pen.

This whole portion of the process may start to annoy you, but if it makes you feel any better, I faced all three problems, went through 3 quartz of emulsion, and got wrinkly fingers before getting it right. Again, record everything you do, this may be the hardest part of the whole screen printing process. Good luck.

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Step 5. Setting up your screen for print

I’m sure all of you have aspirations on what medium to print on, be it T-shirts, posters, metal sheets, tote bags, aluminum plates, hoodies, jackets, even underwear. You may apply this concept to any of the above and all you really need is the right paint and mesh type. However, let’s focus on one thing at a time. I’m here to talk about textile, mainly T-shirts for it’s the most popular.

What you need:

• Screen
• Clear tape or Brown paper tape
• Ruler

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brown sticky paper

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Measure about an inch and a half from the edges of your screen. Now tape all 4 sides (I use brown paper tape) to stop any paint that might leak out during printing.

Let it dry out. Use a fan.

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Step 6. Screen printing your first t-shirt